MYTH-BUSTER : Perceline Oil
Perchè un olio che esce più o meno dall’ano di una papera dovrebbe avere effetti cosmetici miracolosi ?
In realtà non si tratta tecnicamente di un olio ma di una miscela di lipidi, soprattutto cere .
Rodolfo Baraldini
Pubblicato 01 Settembre 2012
In realtà non si tratta tecnicamente di un olio ma di una miscela di lipidi, soprattutto cere .
PurCellin Oil™
PurCellin Oil™ è un marchio registrato nel cosmetico con alcune restrizioni da una società Geneva, delle isole vergini inglesi. Il marchio è utilizzato da Union Swiss, società sudafricana , che vende il Bio-Oil. L’ingrediente cosmetico viene descritto come olio “derivato” dall’olio prodotto dalle ghiandole uropigio delle papere/oche/uccelli acquatici ( preen duck oil ). In realtà “purcellin” era un vecchio (1963) marchio registrato in USA dalla DRAGOCO, produttore tedesco di chimica di base, che aveva sintetizzato alcuni esteri/cere con caratteristiche “simili” all’olio di uropigio. Dragoco ha lasciato decadere il marchio e solo dal 2000 la Union Swiss ha cominciato ad utilizzare questo marchio. Nei database chimici perceline oil è oggi sinonimo dell’INCI: Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate , uno dei componenti della secrezione uropigiale.
Uropigio
L’uropigio è una ghiandola sebacea situata in prossimità della coda ( e dell’ano) degli uccelli. Produce una miscela di lipidi che avrebbero come funzione principale quella di rendere idrorepellente penne e piumaggio. In realtà le analisi della secrezione uropigiale hanno mostrato sostanziali differenze in funzione della specie, del sesso, della stagione ( la secrezione uropigiale avrebbe anche azione fero-ormonica nel periodo dell’accoppiamento ) ecc..
(1) Jacob, J. In Chemistry and Biochemistry of Natural Waxes. Kolattukudy, P. E., Ed.; Elsevier: Amsterdam, 1976; pp 93-146. Jacob, J. Bull. B. O. C. Centenary Suppl. 1992, 112A, 159-167. Jacob, J.; Ziswiler, V. Avian Biol. 1982, 6, 199-324. (2) Saito, K.; Gamo, M. Biochim. Biophys. Acta 1972, 260, 164-168. Kolattukudy, P. E.; Sawaya, W. N. Lipids 1974, 9, 290-292. Jacob, J. Biochem. Syst. Ecol. 1978, 6, 347-350. (3) Jacob, J.; Balthazar, J.; Schoffeniels, E. Biochem. Syst. Ecol. 1979, 7, 149-153. Kolattukudy, P. E.; Bohnet, S.; Rogers, L. J. Lipid Res. 1987, 28, 582-588. (4) Dekker: M.; Piersma, T.; Sinninghe Damste´, J. S. Lipids. (5) Jacob, J.; Poltz, J. Biochem. Syst. Ecol. 1973, 1, 169-172.
Oli sintetici cosmetici simili al purcellin oil naturale
La secrezione dell’uropigio è veramente complessa e variabile, da anni i produttori di materie prime cosmetiche utilizzano il termine purcellin o purceline oil per vendere oli sintetici che vantano caratteristiche simili a quelle della secrezione uropigiale. Le nomenclature INCI assegnate a queste materie sono quasi tutte rintracciabili nella lista ingredienti del Bio-Oil : Triisononanoin, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isopropyl Myristate….
Come funzionerebbe?
La principale funzionalità cosmetologica è legata alla idroreppelenza /idroritenzione. Tutti i lipidi si considerano idrorepellenti ma sono più efficaci quelli non polari ( i trigliceridi degli oli vegetali ad esempio hanno una piccola componente polare dovuta al glicerolo e quindi non sono l’ideale ).Il benchmark prestazionale è la Vernix Caseosa, il biofilm che protegge i feti. La vernix caseosa ha una occlusività non eccessiva ma una ottima capacità di ritenzione idrica e di effetto barriera. Da molti anni si sono studiate formulazioni cosmetiche che riproducessero l’efficacia della vernix caseosa. In realtà molti sistemi formulativi riescono a riprodurre emollienza, barriera e ritenzione idrica simili.Esiste una discreta letteratura sulla funzionalità di questi cosmetici in particolare nel trattamento di cicatrici e smagliature. Tutte le ricerche scientifiche indipendenti ( quindi non commissionate dai produttori dei cosmetici ) non hanno rilevato una significatività statistica dei risultati positivi. Nel caso delle cicatrici il miglioramento rilevato non si discosta a sufficienza dalla normale remissione e riparazione fisiologica. Nel caso delle smagliature ( prevenzione e/o riduzione di striae albae, rubrae o gravidiche ) il miglioramento riscontrato non si discosta significativamente da quello ottenuto con il massaggio assiduo ( con oli qualunque ). Qui di seguito, una sintesi di alcune ricerche con conclusioni interessanti relative alla prevenzione delle striae gravidiche.
J Clin Nurs. 2012 Jun;21(11-12):1570-6. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2702.2012.04087.x. The effect of bitter almond oil and massaging on striae gravidarum in primiparaous women. Timur Taşhan S, Kafkasli A. Department of Women Health Nursing, Malatya Health High School, Inonu University, Malatya, Turkey. AIM: This study aims to identify the effect of applying bitter almond oil with and without massage on preventing striae gravidarum during pregnancy. BACKGROUND: Striae gravidarum is a dermatological problem bringing about cosmetic concerns in about 90% of pregnant women. On the onset, striae gravidarum appears as a pink-purple atrophic strip. Striae appear pale atrophic in the postnatal period, but they never disappear completely. DESIGN: In view of the physiology of striae gravidarum formation, this study employs a posttest-only quasi-experimental design with a control group. METHODS: The participants of this study were the primiparous women who visited the pregnancy unit of a medical centre in the eastern region of Turkey between February 1st, 2010 and April 15th, 2011. The participants were divided into three groups: the primiparous women who applied bitter almond oil with massage (n = 47), who merely applied bitter almond oil (n = 48) and who were in the control group (n = 46). RESULTS: The frequency of striae gravidarum was 20% among the women who applied bitter almond oil with massage, 38·8% among those who merely applied almond oil and 41·2% in the control group. A statistically significant difference was observed in the frequency of striae gravidarum between the groups, and it was the group who applied almond oil with massage that accounted for the difference (p < 0·001). The frequency of striae gravidarum was also found to be lower in the group who applied almond oil with massage compared to the others (p < 0·05). CONCLUSION: It was found that a 15-minute massage applied with almond oil during pregnancy reduced the development of striae gravidarum, but using bitter almond oil had no effect on this in itself. It is recommended that pregnant women be informed about the positive effects of massaging applied with almond oil early during their pregnancy. RELEVANCE TO CLINICAL PRACTICE: Nurses and midwives can use the findings of this study in preventing the development of striae gravidarum during pregnancy.
Wien Klin Wochenschr. 1992;104(2):42-4. Attempt of preventive treatment of striae gravidarum using preventive massage ointment administration Wierrani F, Kozak W, Schramm W, Grunberger W. Gynakologische und geburtshilfliche Abteilung, Krankenanstalt Rudolfstiftung Wien. Striae distensae are an appreciable cosmetic problem for many pregnant women. Preventive application of a water/oil massage cream was tested in a group of 24 gravidae (control group: 26 patients). In the untreated control group striae distensae were observed in two-thirds of the patients, whereas the prophylactically-treated gravidae showed development of striae in only one third of the group given the test preparation. Better results were obtained in women with a favourable constitutional predisposition than in patients with a tendency to overweight. The massage cream was well tolerated by all gravidae.
J Clin Nurs. 2012 Jun;21(11-12):1570-6. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2702.2012.04087.x. The effect of bitter almond oil and massaging on striae gravidarum in primiparaous women. Timur Taşhan S, Kafkasli A. Department of Women Health Nursing, Malatya Health High School, Inonu University, Malatya, Turkey. AIM: This study aims to identify the effect of applying bitter almond oil with and without massage on preventing striae gravidarum during pregnancy. BACKGROUND: Striae gravidarum is a dermatological problem bringing about cosmetic concerns in about 90% of pregnant women. On the onset, striae gravidarum appears as a pink-purple atrophic strip. Striae appear pale atrophic in the postnatal period, but they never disappear completely. DESIGN: In view of the physiology of striae gravidarum formation, this study employs a posttest-only quasi-experimental design with a control group. METHODS: The participants of this study were the primiparous women who visited the pregnancy unit of a medical centre in the eastern region of Turkey between February 1st, 2010 and April 15th, 2011. The participants were divided into three groups: the primiparous women who applied bitter almond oil with massage (n = 47), who merely applied bitter almond oil (n = 48) and who were in the control group (n = 46). RESULTS: The frequency of striae gravidarum was 20% among the women who applied bitter almond oil with massage, 38·8% among those who merely applied almond oil and 41·2% in the control group. A statistically significant difference was observed in the frequency of striae gravidarum between the groups, and it was the group who applied almond oil with massage that accounted for the difference (p < 0·001). The frequency of striae gravidarum was also found to be lower in the group who applied almond oil with massage compared to the others (p < 0·05). CONCLUSION: It was found that a 15-minute massage applied with almond oil during pregnancy reduced the development of striae gravidarum, but using bitter almond oil had no effect on this in itself. It is recommended that pregnant women be informed about the positive effects of massaging applied with almond oil early during their pregnancy. RELEVANCE TO CLINICAL PRACTICE: Nurses and midwives can use the findings of this study in preventing the development of striae gravidarum during pregnancy.
Wien Klin Wochenschr. 1992;104(2):42-4. Attempt of preventive treatment of striae gravidarum using preventive massage ointment administration Wierrani F, Kozak W, Schramm W, Grunberger W. Gynakologische und geburtshilfliche Abteilung, Krankenanstalt Rudolfstiftung Wien. Striae distensae are an appreciable cosmetic problem for many pregnant women. Preventive application of a water/oil massage cream was tested in a group of 24 gravidae (control group: 26 patients). In the untreated control group striae distensae were observed in two-thirds of the patients, whereas the prophylactically-treated gravidae showed development of striae in only one third of the group given the test preparation. Better results were obtained in women with a favourable constitutional predisposition than in patients with a tendency to overweight. The massage cream was well tolerated by all gravidae.
Rodolfo Baraldini
Pubblicato 01 Settembre 2012
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